Back to Westphalia

Our flight from Adelaide was the first destination on a 3-leg trip back to the Old World. Only two days ago we had a farewell dinner at our friend's house, where we made our famous Uzbek pilaf in a beautiful Cruisette and drank Barossa wine. We sat outside and I tried to soak in that last impressions of Australia - the fresh pungent scent of eucalyptus, passion fruit vine growing on the fence, the people with whom we had dined. I wondered when I'd come here again...

We flew over Adelaide. Last minute squabble with the management of the apartment, the stress of waiting for the notorious Adelaide taxi service whose only consistency was its consistently being late, days of packing and negotiating with kids on what to leave and what to take - all of this was left behind. The plane soared above Glenelg and the ocean sparkled an unbelievable torquise blue. I could not believe how beautiful it looked and while the boys were chiming "Bye, Glenelg", a pang of sadness stabbed me. I grew fond of Adelaide, the ocean, our new routines and I knew I'd miss it so!

The flight from Australia was uneventful and I couldn't help envy my children who had slept through most of the flights to Singapore and Frankfurt. We landed in Germany and took a train to Wuppertal, another cute Westphalia town.

Luckily, Europe met us nicely - the weather was over 25C and it was April 1.

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Top things to do around South Australia

In no particular order

1. Get a dozen of freshly-caught oysters and a chilled bottled of Barossa bubbly, sit at the beach and enjoy the sunset at Glenelg.
2. Window-shop on Jetty rd, have a latte, and look for stingrays off Glenelg jetty. Relax at the beach, swim, and do nothing!
3. Jog from Glenelg jetty to Brighton jetty and back and take a swim in the Bay. 
4. Visit Adelaide's many museums and take part in its many festivals.
5. Hike in Hallet Cove.
6. Swim with dolphins off the coast of Glenelg.
7. Tour Barossa and taste shiraz. Have alfresco lunch at a rustic Charlie Melton winery in Barossa. 
8. On Sat afternoon head to the Central Market and hunt for great deals on freshly-caught fish, shellfish, fruits, and veggies. Grab a sizzling platter for lunch at the food court.
9. Visit Remarkable Rocks, Admiral Arch, Seal Bay Conservation park, swim at Stokes Bay or Snellings beaches of Kangaroo Island. Feed kangaroos at Prandana. 
10. Treat yourself to lavender ice-cream at Emu Bay Lavender Farm on KI. 
11. Take an airplane tour to view Wilpena Pound from the air.
12. Take a 4WD tour in Arkaroola.
13. Bushwalk to St. Mary's Peak at Flinders Ranges National park and enjoy the stunning view.
    
    

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Dolphin Swim and Watch

Being so close to the ocean, we couldn't miss a very touristic but a rare opportunity to get on board of a boat for a dolphin swim. The vessel, Temptation Sailing, took us for a 4-hour trip into the bay waters. The Big Nomad looking impressively professional in a wetsuit and the snorkeling gear, spent most of the time in the water watching the dolphins, while the kids, myself, and the 3 boat operators were the only people aboard the ship for the duration of the swim.

We chased dolphins but never attempted to come too close to them intentionally. In most cases, the boat had to stop mere 10-30m away when the mammals swam up so close that I could have touched them if I had leaned against the side of the boat. Many times, the most adventurous ones swam alongside and in front of the boat. Playful by nature, they were racing the boat, jumping out of the water, peeking out and looking straight at us. The Big Nomad says that when he waved to a dolphin, he waved back at him with his flipper!

We saw about 40 common and bottlenose dolphins: moms with calves, loners, couples and large schools. It was such a unique experiences to see dolphins in their natural habitat and I'm sure it was much more exciting for the Big Nomad! 

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Adelaide 101

Mount Lofty Ranges from the plane

With a population about 1.5mln, Adelaide is rated the 8th most livable city in the world (The Economist, 2010). It has a terrific location  - on the low plains, between picturesque Mt. Lofty Ranges on one side (Mt Lofty - 700m above the sea level) and the Gulf St Vincent on the other with River Torrents running through it. Nature-wise it has everything: rolling mountains, a flowing river, the lush green woods, marsh lands, and dry outback.

Adelaidians are quick to point out that the city was founded as a planned British colony for free immigrants. Following the recommendations of the National Colonization Society, SA settlers purchased the land rather than receiving free grants of land, making the region self-supporting planned colony with no need for subsidies from the British Government. So Adelaide escaped the convict past that defines New South Wales, having spared the settlers the agony of fighting off both the Aboriginals and the convicts. The same free spirit went hand in hand with strong conservative Christian beliefs, which were well-reflected in Australia's immigration policies and handling of the Aboriginals.

A sketch depicting the free immigrants landing in Glenelg 1839
(Migrants museum, Adelaide)

The Old Gum Tree in Glenelg
under which South Australia
was proclaimed a state

The first ship arrived in Glenelg in 1836 and the colony was proclaimed the same day under the Old Gum Tree that still stands today. An impressive life-size replica of the HMS Buffalo ship that brought the first settlers is anchored in Glenelg and houses a very mediocre restaurant.

After the first rough years, the colony got on its feet thanks to export of wool and wheat, and later, discovery and mining of copper. The waves of immigration brought mostly young married couples from farms in England, Ireland, Scotland, and Germany. A few started developing wineries in the Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley.

HMS Buffalo replica in Glenelg

The biggest city on the south Australian coast, Adelaide is sophisticated, calm, and large enough without being overwhelming. It has a very high standard of living with an average house price of $400,000 (2010), which makes it a very affordable city. There is a wide range of gourmet restaurants catering to local and out-of-state foodies.

Tour Down Under -
an international race that draws spectators from all over the world

Adelaide is a center for numerous international sport, arts,  and music events. In January we caught Santos Tour Down Under - the Australian Tour de France; February is hosting the Fringe Festival and March will see Womadelaide music festival. Just these last two events expect to draw up to 3 millions of people from around Australia and the world.

Australia Day Parade on Jan. 26th
celebrates history and diversity of the city

After the parade the crowd sits down for a concert,
food, and fireworks that go into the night

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Dolce Far Niente

Our residence in Glenelg on Google Satellite

I picked up this expression in "Eat, Pray, Love" (on my way to Australia). The sweetness of doing nothing in Italian has come to define my lifestyle in Australia!

Glenelg Beach

Glenelg - a beach-side suburb of Adelaide where we reside is a typical resort town swirling with holiday crowd and service industry built around making the vacationers happy and full. The spirit of eternal holiday permeates the streets - people lounging at the beach, sitting back in coffee shops, shopping, dining. When we first walked down the streets, the Little Nomad exclaimed: "This is like the Fun Land in Pinocchio!"

Actually, I wouldn't be surprised if I did grow a donkey tail, Pinocchio-style, by end of my stay here: I spent the first month in South Australia in a state of lethargic trance that had completely enveloped my mind and body. Spending sluggish days at the beach slathered in sunscreen, with a chic-lit book (that I would normally scorn) in hand and splashing in the Bay's warm waters have been the pinnacle of my self-discipline. It is only now, 4 weeks later, that I am starting to regain my energy. Is it the southern sun that strips you of any resolve and will power? Or maybe, the sprint across Europe had worn me out so much? Or was it the climate and time adjustment? In any case, I can hardly remember any time in my life when I was actually relaxed to the point of numbness and complete indifference to anything that would require me to get off the beach mat. And I would not be truthful if I said that I am not enjoying it!

The Glenelg Beach

Our apartment is tucked away from the hassle and noise of the main strip and is 50m away from Jetty Rd - a happening street with a long ribbon of shops and restaurants, more shops and restaurants, that is about 2km long. 300m away from the apartment is the best beach in Adelaide - the Gulf of Vincent with incredibly warm transparent waters, white sand, a long jetty, and a strip of entertainment facilities, hotels, and restaurants. A walkway runs along the beach on Esplanade st and stretches about 5km with a magnificent view of the beach.

Every single day the Bay has significant low-high tide changes. The character and the mood of the beach changes so drastically in mere 6 hours, but is extremely attractive in either condition! In the morning, the ocean drains by at least 150 meters in 3 hours (a tide-tracking website indicates the high-tide at 2.4m today). While you stand watching the water fade , a large strip of white sand gets exposed right under your feet. It leaves behind shells of all colors, shapes and forms, fish, and crab. The receding ocean is very shallow, warm, and calm presenting a safe environment for kids' endless games. By the evening, the ocean's high-tide brings higher waves, stronger wind, and deeper beach line. A different crowd comes out to the beach - novice surfers, adventure-seeking swimmers, and teenagers. The changes in the Bay waters are swift but the difference they bring add to the variety of activities we can add to our arsenal.

Alongside the faceless supermarkets, Glenelg sports numerous small butcher and sausage shops, fish stores, and bakeries where the owners know their produce and their clientele. Early on Sat morning the Little Nomads run for the croissants, twice as big as the French ones (and twice as expensive), still warm from the oven. No kissing up to a butcher here - he's come to know what the kids like. He's an incredibly friendly guy, but he's also the only person whose accent I have a hard time understanding. People are friendly, the weather is perfect, and there are still two more month of this bliss ahead!

The Glenelg Marina

Sunset over the bay

Moseley Square
clock tower

Freshly-caught crab

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